Miraflores is the nicest neighborhood in Lima, but it’s also the grayest. It’s right on a cliff over the ocean so it’s the first stop for sea fog. Especially during the winter, which is starting now. The sun is shining through the grey now and I’m sitting on the wee porch of my aunt’s good friend and neighbor Maria Ines where I have been lodged while my aunt visits London. Sitting here under all the apartment buildings and hotels I have nine internet networks to connect to! A wifi robber couldn’t be any happier. I’m listening to All Classical 89.9 on the internet and missing Portland.
My last couple of days in Chiclayo, I packed up all my equipment and sent it to Lima on an overnight bus and made my way to the base of the Túcume pyramids, a half-an-hour’s drive from Chiclayo (or in my case, an hour’s drive since my taxi man didn’t listen in took me to Mórrope instead and then charged me extra to take me to Túcume, idiot). I stayed a very pretty little hotel. On my walk to the pyramids, I saw parrots, owls, and lots of other pretty birds. I followed the path up the tallest pyramid in the morning before it got blazing hot and decided it was an ideal place a tai chi class, and did some stretches. I saw a couple of foxes scampering over the hills. It was altogether a fairly romantic experience.
When it came time to pay, I found out that the hotel didn’t accept credit cards and that I didn’t have enough money to pay. Then I found out that my ATM card didn’t work which I now know is because WaMu is becoming Chase and temporarily turned off my ATM access. So the hotel manager got pretty furious and my taxi driver lent me money, which I then wired him when I got back to Lima. It was enough stress to undo all the relaxing and pyramid stretching I had done, but at least I have photos of pyramids and birds.
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